Mornings, as I make my way down the crowded side street I call home, my neighbors and I greet each other with a familiar comfort. One little boy, no older than a year, has even learned to blow me a kiss ((thanks grandma for teaching him)).
However, lately they have been saying, "naa lak maak," which I've always taken as "very cute." Originally I was told that this is often used when talking about children; I take it as a compliment, but continue to wonder, "Do I really look 16?" While on the bus to Pattaya this weekend, Ben was teaching me how to read Thai letters and I brought up how my neighbors are always calling me "cute". Ben smiled and explained, "It actually means 'worthy of being loved'".
I continue to feel more a part of this community every day. I shocked one of the motorbike drivers, they all know me well by now, when he asked me a question in Thai. Without missing a beat, I responded correctly. His jaw dropped and his face turned a sanguine red as he turned to flash his friends a look of astonishment. And yeah, I hear them ask me where I am going and tell me I look pretty, but the difference is now that I'm becoming more comfortable with the language, I can respond back.
This weekend was a success in terms of the bucket list. Thursday Ben and I took Oliver and Riannon out to Chinatown and Kao San Road, or rather Ben took the three of us out. We went off the beaten path of Kao San and found ourselves in an intimate Thai bar, with live music. I had my hidden gems in Prague, so I understood Ben's enthusiasm about this place. When you really love a culture and respect it, it's these little places that remind you why and reinforce that love. It's like the heartbeat of Bangkok and it pulses with Thai culture.
Pattaya is a two hour drive south of Bangkok. Known worldwide for it's reputation as a sex tourism hotspot, it lives up to its name. The streets are packed with prostitutes, ladyboys and handouts for the infamous ping-pong shows. But when you look past what the tourist generally come to see, your eyes focus on the beauty of the landscape, your ears pick up the sound of the gulf lapping the white sand and you're drawn to the PATTAYA city sign lit up like it's distant cousin in the Hollywood hills.
Before hitting the main drag of Pattaya, we stopped by the Father Ray Foundation, where Ben volunteered nearly two years ago. He taught at the Mahathi School for people with disabilities. Most of the students are in four year English programs, compounded with vocational skills. As we entered the campus we passed by the basketball court. A score of people in wheel chairs were playing was the most intense, fast paced game of basketball I've seen. Ben told me how he used to play with his students and his arms would be weak the next day. For the hoards of people out there that doubt the abilities of those with physical handicaps, this is the place to prove them wrong. It's another one of those humbling moments and it reminded me of my time with Francesca, the nine year old girl I used to work with who has cebral palsey. She made me smile every day and I miss our "I spy..." games and her laugh that "burst forth from her soul". Fran, I will be back to see you soon!
Father Ray's Foundation is different from Mercy in that there is a lot of open space and you can freely walk about the school. Ben took me to one of his favorite spots at Matathi; "Roof 1.0", which has the most breathtaking views of the city, down to the gulf. Coincidence had it that as we stepped foot on the expansive rooftop, the sun was setting, the moon was rising and the sky had turned a brilliant pink. It felt like the world was just saying, "GO FORTH"... and so we did.
Sands Bar, which used to be a small dive bar by Fr Ray's, has now blossomed into a much larger, very classy establishment. While I love myself a small, intimate dive bar, this place still maintains the intimacy, while providing open air seating and a peacfeul ambiance. Two sisters own the bar and seeing them together made me miss my sister. This is probably the longest we've ever gone without seeing each other and my heart hurts not having her near me. We know each others every thought and next move. We understand each other in a way no one else can. She's not just my sister, but my best friend too and I could see it with these two sisters.
The night carried on with all sorts of games, from number games, to hand movement games ((shocking that I FAILED at this)) to games of pool and games with dice. While the girls had limited English and my Thai is still in its infancy, we seemed to be able to communicate pretty well. You could see Ben was in his element and I thought about my places in Prague where I felt completely at home; I told Ben someday he'll have to land on my turf so I can show him around for once.
Sunday we headed over to Father Ray's Children's Home, which is similar to Mercy. Every day this week there is a celebration at one of Father Ray's many "campuses" to celebrate the 8th Anniversary of his passing. The girls danced and the boys sang Thai pop songs and Ben and I sat in the shade taking it all in. The beauty of the children's home, away from the hustle of downtown Pattaya, was all the green space. The kids had a place to run around and be kids, to breathe fresh air and not smog, to see and feel green grass beneath their bare feet and to be in a safe place, far from "Walking Street" and it's late night shows. If there is one thing I have learned from my travels and work with children, it's that no matter where you are in the world, rural North Carolina, suburbia USA, a prep international school in Prague or the slums of Bangkok, kids are kids and they need very little to be happy. We teach people how to treat us (thanks Oprah) and we teach children what they think they need, what they "deserve" and how they feel they should be treated. As adults, we have the ability and responsibility to show children that they are loved and that people care and at the very least, to be one person they can rely on. It's no wonder why Father Joe never left.
For more information about The Father Ray Foundation, see the "blog log" on the right hand side of the screen. This is (from what I hear) an amazing place to volunteer and they take around 20-30 people for 6 month time commitments. Want to get out and make a difference? Here's something you can do and housing is provided. Walking through the walls of Fr Ray, Ben and I heard "TEACHER TEACHER!!!" The people at Mahathi were calling Ben over. It's been two years since Ben taught there, but it shows that when you make a difference in people's lives, they don't forget you. I remember the love I felt when I went back to Park Lane and was attacked by all my kids; they have made such an impact on my life and always made me question everything I thought I knew.
Also, so much love to Ms Leah Steiner Suter (no hyphen) for the card and bracelet from "The Collaborative Bracelet Project". I'm wearing it now and I LOVE it. It's a slice of a giant paining that is now spread across the world. Love the sentiment and miss your face too.
A few for the Bucket List and then some:
Welcome to Pattaya and "Walking Street".
The Pattaya sign lit up, unfortunately so were the street lights.
@ Sands Bar.
Father Ray's Children's Home - boys jamming out.
Larb pretz and retaining water. I love it, you love it, babe.
May and the boys on the roof of Mercy 2, for the candle light ceremony for Mother's Day.
La wong. ((Be careful!))
Ben and the boys.
My new oil painting bracelet. Love it and you Ms Leah!
PeaceLarb&Babe
((Also: For all you music lovers, check out "Bodyslam", a Thai pop group. I've listened to their CD on repeat for the past few hours.))
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